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Review - Blue Magic 12A TR-3 Resin Glaze - 16 fl. oz.

• Restores old, faded and oxidized finishes
• Easy one step application
• Cleans, shines and protects
• Can be used with buffers and polishers
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

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Fountain pens have been manufactured ever since the 18th century. However, with improvements in science and technology, the manufacturing techniques too have undergone significant changes.

There are many phases involved in the making of fountain pens. First, large bands of metal are fed into automated machines to stamp out small circles. These circles of brass are then shaped into the pen parts by compressing the metal into various moulds, to provide it strength and durability. This process produces each specific pen part. The parts are then cleaned properly so as to remove the excess oils used in this process called stamping.

The cleaned parts then go for cutting. In this stage, the stamped-out barrels and caps are cut to the exact measurements of each particular pen. Even though this is an automatic process, some pieces are cut by hand operated machines. From the cutting stage, the metal pen pieces next go on to the polishing stage. The barrels and caps are placed on spindles and pass under circular polishing brushes to remove oil used during polishing.

After this process, the top line pens go to receive gold or platinum plating on various parts, while the other pens go directly to the nib fitting stage. For the top line pens, nib making is a highly specialized, manual process while for normal pens it is usually automatic. The nib metal is fed into a presser that compresses the metal and this gives the nib a tapered thickness whilst developing the spring of the nib. The tip is then coated with a mixture of hard metals and the ball is manually welded into the nib. It is then cut to create the forks that are later calibrated after being engraved. Most pen makers even make the non metal parts of the pens in their factories along with the ink cartridge bodies.

Tiles can add an attractive, timeless look to just about any room in the house. A job of two parts, many people underestimate the importance of a good grouting job. Here are five great tips for grouting:

1. Always follow your grout manufacturer's instructions when mixing up the grout. Never be tempted to add more water than specified.

2. Only mix as much grout as you can use in half an hour. Grout will begin to harden straight away and could be prone to cracking if used after this. Devise a method of accurately measuring the precise amounts of grout and water used in each mixing session, this will ensure you always end up with the same colour or shade of grout (if using coloured grouts!)

3. When grouting, scoop off as much grout as possible from the tiles, then focus on the shaping of the joints! Do not allow yourself to be tempted to start polishing the tiles yet. The joints are hardening, so these must be shaped now. Remember: If you're using waterproof grout, you must doubly ensure that all the grout is removed from the surface of the tiles before continuing to shape the joints.

4. The main thing to remember when grouting is to not panic. If there's a section you are not happy with, simply go back and redo it before it dries. Like in all DIY tasks, you are better off taking an extra five minutes now, than spending five minutes of every day you look at the result regretting not fixing it when you could!

5. Begin polishing when grout has dried. Glazed surfaces should polish up relatively easily. Some surfaces are porous and will have absorbed a certain amount of grout in the process. Don't panic, all this means is you're going to need something slightly stronger to clean it off. There are lots of after-market products that claim to remove dried grout, but these will cost a lot more than a small amount of a readily available chemical: hydrochloric acid. Simply mix a very small part to five parts water. Wear protective rubber gloves and use the coarse side of a pan-scourer to test a small, hidden area of your tiles. If the tiles suffer no reaction, then rub a small amount over the affected areas. Wipe down with a slightly damp cloth when finished and allow the tiles to dry. Repeat if necessary.

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Blue Magic 300 Review - Best Buy BlueMagic 300 Metal Polish Cream - 3.5 oz. On Sale And Discount Price!

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Review - BlueMagic 300 Metal Polish Cream - 3.5 oz.

• Non-abrasive
• For all metal surfaces, brass, copper, sterling silver, aluminum, stainless steel and gold
• Removes tarnish and oxidation
• Provides lasting protective coating
• Can be used with buffers and polishers

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Cleaning and polishing a guitar is the first thing every player should learn. It's the most basic maintenance task which, if done properly, will help retain or even restore an instrument's looks and value.

Prevention is better than cure
If cleaning is carried out regularly from the time a guitar is new, it is a simple task, taking only a few minutes to keep things in top condition.

Levels of cleaning
There are four levels of cleaning: wiping down, light polishing, cream polishing and cleaning. While that may sound like it's a lot of work, in reality if you wipe your guitar down regularly and give it a light polish occasionally, cream polishing is rarely needed and cleaning almost never.

Before any cleaning or polishing
Make sure that dust and grit is blown or dusted off the guitar before you do any cleaning or polishing - otherwise you may scratch the finish by dragging it over the surface with the cloth as you polish.

Wiping down
Make it a habit to wipe down your guitar's finish and strings after you play with a clean, dry cloth to remove fingerprints, sweat and smoke. If necessary, a little "breath mist" will help remove more stubborn marks. Done regularly, this avoids the need to do heavier cleaning and will make your guitar strings last much longer.

Light polish/cleaner
When the grime is tougher than the dry cloth can handle, use a light polish. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to apply and then polish off with a dry cloth. This should only be necessary once a month or so, but can be done daily if you prefer.

Cream polishing
If you play your guitar, you will gradually dull the finish with a multitude of tiny scratches from normal playing wear and tear. Cream polishes restore the gloss by filling these small scratches with a wax. The wax also protects the finish by leaving a protective layer and is resistant to being removed by light polishes, so you will usually only need to use the polish once or twice a year. Cream polish can also remove small amounts of dirt, but if the guitar is very dirty, rather clean it before polishing, to stop the dirt from being trapped under a layer of wax.

Cleaning
Over time, small deposits of sweat, grease, smoke and dust can build up and harden, making normal polishing more difficult and dulling the finish. Use a cleaner and elbow grease to remove the grime, and then follow up with polish.

Cleaning Tools
Cloths
Microfibre or soft cotton cloths are the best things for cleaning guitars. I use my old cotton T-shirts, as long as they are pure cotton, clean and soft. The cloth should ideally be lint free so it does not leave particles behind as you are cleaning.

Light polishes
Light polishes are designed to clean small amounts of dirt from both the finish and any hardware, leaving little to no residue. They can be used daily if necessary without fear of any kind of build-up.

Cream polishes
Cream polishes contain waxes which fill in small scratches, leave a protective coating and even seal cracks without penetrating into the wood itself. Because they leave a protective layer, it is best not to use them too often, as there is a chance of build-up developing, sometimes even trapping dirt under the protective coating.

Cleaners
The best all-round cleaner is Naphtha (lighter fluid/ paraffin oil). Naphtha is strong enough to remove most oils, dirt and grease, but is gentle enough to use on even the most delicate finish. It can be used to clean unfinished fingerboards like rosewood or ebony safely and can be used to soak and clean metal hardware such as bridges and saddles.

Do NOT use
Regular furniture polishes - they often contain silicon or other oils that make a guitar feel greasy. They also tend to penetrate finish cracks or screw holes, getting into the wood and making the finish lift. Silicon also tends to make any future guitar repair work such as refinishing, refretting or gluing extremely difficult.

"Dashboard" polishes - not even on your guitar case, as these are mostly silicon oil and tend to get everywhere else too, carried by your hands.

Solvents like isopropyl alcohol or surgical spirits - some (especially expensive) finishes can be damaged by them and they remove the natural oils from fingerboards, drying them out, making them more prone to cracking.

A ring is a fashion accessory that makes a bold statement about what you are putting on your body at a particular time. You can make an homemade ring for yourself in five simple steps, however if you want the best, classic ring which you can boldly flash wither at home, among your friends or at any occasion, you need to visit a jewelry store.

A homemade casual ring can be designed with the use of a coin. You can choose a coin designed probably some decades ago, these are coins designed with 90% silver and are much more ideal than those designed today. Hammer down the edges of the coins to flatten them, and get rid of indentations at the side of the coins. The wider the surface of the coin the better it is. You have to be precise while drilling a hole in the coin, and failure to locate the exact place to drill a hole can result in frustration. After drilling the coins, you need to shave the metal starting from the inside. You can use a drilling tool for this. After shaving, it's time to polish. With your polishing kit, you can polish your ring from the inside to ensure that it remains comfortable on you. Remember to brush off small cuts and remaining shavings while painting.

This is just a simple way of making a homemade ring. When it comes to making a standard, acceptable, classy and long lasting ring, you can't use a homemade material, all you need is make use of the features on a wonderful ring designing website. Now, the first question arrives in mind that is "How to know the ring size?" The answer is: You have 5 choices for this. One, you can just go to the local jewelry shop and know your or your fiance's ring size. Two, if you are buying the ring for your fiance, then you can just secretly ask her mother or sister or friends to know the size. Three, you can borrow a ring from your fiance and can use it for sizing. The option number four is, you can measure it by yourself. You have to follow these steps to measure the ring size by yourself:

The Role of Heavy Metals

Current research studies are finding that many of today's diseases and health problems are linked to an over-burden of toxins in the body. We live in a polluted environment where our food, air and water are contaminated with hundreds of heavy metals that easily pass into our digestive tract to invade us.

Airborne toxins such as car exhaust fumes, factory smoke and cigarette smoke, chemical pollutants such as cosmetics, shampoos, deodorants, hair dyes and nail polish join forces with toxins in our clothes, bedding and showers to have a debilitating effect on our physical well-being. To say we are being bombarded with toxic threats is not an over-exaggeration.

Leading the charge in the toxic army are the heavy metals, which comprise; lead, mercury, aluminum, antimony, arsenic, barium, beryllium, bismuth, bromine, cadmium, nickel, thallium, tin and uranium.

Mercury is probably one of the best-known and one of the worst environmental poisons. It can come from; leaking amalgam/silver fillings, which are about 50% mercury, heavy fish consumption, residues from volcanic ash and coal burning.

It's been over 30 years since the government banned lead from paint, and started to phase it out of gasoline but it seems like almost every day there is a news report about a product containing un-safe levels of lead, from children's toys to lipsticks. Despite restrictions placed on lead usage, we know that compared to several hundred years ago, the lead level in our bones is hundreds of times higher than it was at that time.

Of course, all of this just adds to the toxic burden and does nothing to handle the underlying problem - toxic contamination. So, if you are feeling less than 100%, this is likely a major factor and you should discuss with a physician knowledgeable about the impact and treatment of these toxic burdens.

How Can Chelation Therapy Help?

Chelation Therapy (pronounced ke-lation) has been used continuously since it was introduced in the 1940s, specifically to treat lead poisoning. When first used, it was noted that not only did the symptoms of lead poisoning abate but also problems related to the circulatory system such as heart attacks, angina and strokes also improved. Another bonus provided by the new therapy was that it was it found to eliminate not only lead but many other heavy metals too.

Today's Chelation is an intravenous therapy which locates deposits of heavy metals that don't belong in the body and pulls them out, leaving the essential minerals that are the building blocks of a healthy body, in place.

Heavy metal toxicity leads to decreased amounts of Nitric Oxide, which leads to un-relaxed blood vessels and associated decreased blood flow. Also effective in removing calcium and cholesterol deposits, Chelation Therapy can reduce levels by removing plaquing in blood vessels which makes this therapy particularly suited to patients with high blood pressure and high cholesterol or with a history of heart disease. Traditionally known as a "man's" illness, heart disease is now the chief cause of death among American women of all ages and the rate rises significantly after menopause. While the procedure is controversial and still under trials, physicians with experience in Chelation believe that the elimination of heavy metals is a desirable medical procedure that can be life saving.

What Happens During Chelation Therapy?

Patients are carefully evaluated before being considered suitable for chelation therapy, which involves the administration of EDTA (Ethylene-diamine-tetra-acetic acid) via an intravenous drip over a number of sessions. EDTA is approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (AFDA) for the treatment of heavy metal poisoning, and is considered safe and routinely used for that purpose. Its use to treat cardiovascular disease and metal detoxification as a means of improving overall health, is still considered investigational and is not considered an approved use by FDA. Chelation is taught by the American College for the Advancement of Medicine, who sets standards for its use and it is currently under study by the National Institutes of Health in a large, multi-center clinical trial. EDTA is diluted in IV fluids of salts, sugars or sterile water to which are added many other vitamins, minerals, bicarbonate salts, anesthetics or heparin.

The wheels and tyres are the only parts of your car that actually connect it to the road, therefore they tend to pick up dirt and contaminants quickly. Wheel arches are the inner area that surround the wheels and tyres and so any dirt and contaminants picked up from the road surface by will be deposited on them quickly too. As well as picking up dirt from the road the wheels get covered in a thin layer of dust from the brake pads every time your car brakes. This builds up over time and if not cleaned regularly can literally 'bake' onto the surface of the wheel due to the heat also being generated under braking. If wheels are left uncleaned the dirt and brake dust will gradually build up and become very difficult to remove. Depending on the design of your cars wheels the contaminants may begin work under the surface and corrode the wheel leaving it looking very unsightly and neglected.

Tyres also pick up and carry all the same dirt and contaminants that the wheels do but are often overlooked. It is important to properly clean and dress your tyres though, as this helps to prevent the tyre walls from fading, cracking and degrading due to the sun and water from the road surface. The tread on your tyres may be good but if the tyre walls become cracked in places the tyre may be deemed unsafe considering it is the only part connecting you and your car to the road.

Wheel arches are also often overlooked during the car cleaning process. Again though it is important to ensure that your wheel arches are kept as clean and free from contaminants as possible. Around the wheel arches is one of the most common areas for corrosion and rust to occur so it is worth paying attention to them when cleaning your car. There are a number of important moving parts located behind the wheel and within the arch itself and these will work better and last longer if kept free from the build up of harmful contaminants.

You should clean your wheels tyres and arches every time the rest of your car is cleaned. As with all the other parts of your car, if these have initially been thoroughly and properly cleaned they should not require allot of effort to return them to a satisfactory and contaminant free standard. Initially you may need a strong yet non-acidic designated wheel cleaner to remove heavy dirt and baked on brake dust. If your wheels are not too heavily soiled then a diluted all purpose cleaner and/or a normal car shampoo product can be used to clean them. A selection of soft and stiff bristled brushes are essential to be able to effectively clean and reach awkward areas of your wheels tyres and arches. Diluted all purpose cleaner can also be used along with a normal shampoo product to clean the arches and tyre walls.

An all in one polish product can be used to safely and effectively restore and enhance your wheels even further after cleaning. You may also want to use a designated wheel sealant after polishing to fully protect the wheels and make them much easier to clean next time. A metal or chrome polish may be required for polished lips, dished wheels or even fully chrome wheels. A selection of micro fibre towels and applicator pads will be needed for the application and removal of the polish/sealant products and a detailing spray can be used to aid the removal of any awkward product residue.

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Review - BlueMagic 200 Liquid Metal Polish - 8 oz.

• Non-abrasive, also works great on plastic and fiberglass
• For all metal surfaces, brass, copper, sterling silver, aluminum, stainless steel and gold
• Works excellent on chrome or alloy wheels
• Leaves a sealant that bonds to the surface
• Can be used with buffers and polishers

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Review - BlueMagic 500-06 Metal Polish Cream - 19 3/8 oz.

• Non-abrasive
• For all metal surfaces, brass, copper, sterling silver, aluminum, stainless steel and gold
• Removes tarnish and oxidation
• Provides lasting protective coating
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

For More Information :

Wash brass, copper, pewter and silver or silver plate in a warm solution of washing up liquid and water. Rinse in hot water and dry with a soft cloth.

Brass and Copper:

After washing, use one of the following polishing methods. If you don't want to uy a special cleaner, try rubbing the surface with half a lemon dipped in salt. Rinse and buff with a soft cloth. This method, however, tends to lighten copper and bring out the orange colour. Alternatively, apply a proprietery cream or liquid with a soft cloth and buff before the polish is completely dry. Some brands can be rinsed off with water and are ideal for intricate pieces. For heavier tarnishing, use copper or brass wadding impregnated with polish. This is messy and requires elbow grease. Do not use too frequently as it is quite abrasive.

Pewter:

Never use harsh polish. If the item is heavily tarnished, use a proprietary silver cleaner.

Silver:

For dusting, use impregnated silver polishing cloths or mitts. Silver is a soft metal, so don't rub too hard. Use straight even strokes - never rub silver crosswise or with a rotary movement. For polishing use one of the following methods. A cream or liquid polish is often recommended by manufacturers of fine silver services - these products are ideal for moderately tarnished items. Allow to dry to a fine powdery deposit, then buff with a soft, dry cloth. Foaming paste is idea for cutlery and for covering large areas such as platters. Apply the paste with a damp sponge and lather to a foam. Rinse in water and dry thoroughly. Sprays are good for covering large areas; wadding is available for heavily tarnished items.

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Review - BlueMagic 550 Metal Polish Cream, 72.oz

• Non-abrasive
• For all metal surfaces, brass, copper, sterling silver, aluminum, stainless steel and gold
• Removes tarnish and oxidation
• Provides lasting protective coating
• This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

For More Information :